The Secret Life of the Seine, by Mort Rosenblum (Cambridge, MA: Da Capo Press, 2001; first published in 1994)
Mort Rosenblum, "journalist, author, educator, and eater," invites readers on a tour of the Seine, from its source “on a limestone hill in a forest glade…thirty miles northwest of Dijon” to its mouth at Le Havre. Traveling primarily on “his 54-foot wooden boat,” usually moored in Paris, Rosenblum’s descriptions of the geology, history, people, and beauty of the Seine brings the river to life.
My original idea had been a single journey, from first trickle to final rollers, in some form of conveyance. Paul Theroux suggested a kayak, the way he’d do it. Another old pro urged something more French, like a rubber Zodiac. Had I talked to Mark Spitz, I probably would have considered the butterfly stroke. But the seine, often submissive, needs a minimum of conquering. To live her secret life, you’ve got to take it slowly, in various ways at different times. My exploring would take me among old books, into rusting engine compartments, and, as far I could go, into the thoughts of river people. More than a journey, this was a quest. I was after the soul of the Seine. Scrapping all plans, I simply set out. – from The Secret Life of the Seine, by Mort Rosenblum
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